Updated August 1, 2023
Want to make a mosaic crochet bag on a flat oval base, with the exact number of stitches you need for your pattern? Look no further, I have the formula!
No more guessing how large to make an oval for a bag. It's easy to make your designs fit exactly where you want them to. With this tutorial, your seam will end up at the center of one side, making it easy to start adding your mosaic pattern directly to the base. You can also use this tutorial to make straps to finish your bag.
Oval Construction
The oval is constructed around a foundation chain, starting with a round of SC stitches, and DC stitches added for the remaining rounds. Working from the front side only, the oval starts with a half arch, turned to side A (flat with no increases), an arch at the other end, turned to side B (flat with no increases), and finished with the other half of the arch.
This tutorial will show you how to create 4 different sized ovals. An oval with 2 DC rounds is good for a narrower or small sized bag, great for books or a tablet. An oval with 3 DC rounds is good for a standard sized handbag, and an oval with 4 rounds is good for a wider bag. You can also create straps using an oval with 1 or 2 DC rounds.
The overall size of your oval will depend on your yarn weight and tension. It's best to do some samples to know how wide you would like your base. This example uses a worsted weight cotton yarn. One round measures about 1 1/4" wide, and each round increases by a little less than 1".
Chain Count Formula
Start with the total number of stitches needed for one side of the bag. Use the multiples listed in the pattern to determine how many stitches per repeat. Minus the number of stitches for the oval rounds (see below.)
Oval with 2 DC rounds: minus 11
Oval with 3 DC rounds: minus 17
Oval with 4 DC rounds: minus 23
Patterns with Multiples Plus 1:
If you have a pattern that lists multiples plus 1, you'll need to take a look at your chart to see if you can either drop the "plus 1" stitch or keep it in.
If the column outside the repeat section doesn't contain any special stitches, and only has SCs and/or DCs, then you can drop the "plus 1" stitch. When crocheting in-the-round you'll only follow the stitches shown in the repeat section. Calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag by multiplying the number of stitches in the repeat section only. The design across the seam will look continuous.
If the column outside the repeat section does contain special stitches, these can not be split or dropped, so you'll need to calculate the number of stitches for the front of your bag with that extra stitch included. When crocheting in-the-round, you'll see that extra stitch at the seam and the design won't be completely continuous. When crocheting the oval base, you'll also need to remove the very last stitch to make sure your oval has an odd number of stitches. See how to add a DC decrease here: Final Round with No Increases
Patterns with Multiples Plus 2:
If your pattern lists multiples plus 2, this likely means the design has separate motifs with extra "blank" stitches on the outside of the repeat section to give it space away from the edges. Calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag plus 2 stitches. These extra stitches will be added to both sides of the bag, and the design will be centered on both sides.
Patterns with Multiples Plus 3:
If your pattern lists multiples plus 3, refer to the section above "Patterns with Multiples Plus 1" to determine if you can drop all 3 stitches or if you need to keep them in. If the stitches can't be dropped, calculate the total number of stitches for the front of the bag using multiples plus 2 instead. Then add a DC decrease in the final round as shown here: Final Round with No Increases
Making the Oval
For this example we will start with a foundation chain of 24. Use the chart above to determine the number of chains for your project. Be sure to note the number of chains in your foundation chain, as you will need to know this number for adding SC and DC rounds later.
Half Arch and Side A
Start with 2 SC in the 2nd chain from the hook.
Begin side A with 1 SC in each chain, 3 less than your foundation chain. (21 sts for this example)
Arch and Side B
Add 3 SC in the last stitch, turn to side B.
Crochet over the tail, 1 SC in each stitch (large hole, both loops) same number of stitches as side A. (21 sts for this example)
Half Arch Finish, Start DC Round 1
Add 1 SC in the last stitch (center hole). Slip-stitch into both loops of the 1st stitch after the chain.
Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. For all stitches in the oval, crochet through both loops.
DC Round 1 Half Arch
2 DCs into next 2 stitches. (5 DCs total after chain)
DC Round 1 Side A
Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain (19 DCs for this example). This will be the same number of stitches on sides A and B for all remaining rounds.
Use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitches of the DC rows on sides A and B. This makes it easier to clearly see where to add increases on your arches and half arches.
DC Round 1 Arch
2 DCs in next 5 stitches. (10 DCs total)
DC Round 1 Side B
Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 1 Half Arch Finish
2 DCs in next 2 stitches, 1 DC in last stitch. (5 DCs total)
Slip-stitch into the 1st DC stitch after the chain.
DC Round 2 Half Arch
Chain 2, and 2 DCs into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, into the next 4 stitches. (8 DCs total after chain)
Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 2 Arch
Add the following sequence into the next 5 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs. Repeat the sequence again for the next 5 stitches. (16 DCs total)
Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 2 Half Arch Finish
Add the following sequence into the next 5 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs, 1 DC, 2 DCs. (8 DCs total)
Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round.
When stopping after Round 2, see section below: Final Round with No Increases
DC Round 3 Half Arch
Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add the following sequence into the next 6 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the last stitch of the arch. (11 DCs total after chain)
Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 3 Arch
Add the following sequence into the next 15 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC into the next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the last stitch of the arch. (22 DCs total)
Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 3 Half Arch Finish
Add the following sequence into the next 6 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 2 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch, and 1 DC into the last stitch (11 DCs total). Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round.
When stopping after Round 3, see section below: Final Round with No Increases
DC Round 4 Half Arch
Chain 2, and 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain. Add the following sequence into the next 8 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch and 1 DC in the last stitch of the arch. (14 DCs total after chain)
Turn to side A, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 4 Arch
Add the following sequence into the next 20 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC into the next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs in the next stitch and 1 DC in the last stitch of the arch. (28 DCs total)
Turn to side B, add 1 DC in each stitch, 5 less than your foundation chain. (19 DCs for this example)
DC Round 4 Half Arch Finish
Add the following sequence into the next 8 stitches: 2 DCs, 1 DC in next 3 stitches. Add 2 DCs into the next stitch, and 1 DC into the next 2 stitches (14 DCs total). Slip-stitch to join to first DC in round.
Final Round with No Increases
3 rounds and 1 round no increases
When you've reached the number of rounds for your project, add an additional round of DC's with no increases. Some patterns may call for this to be SC's instead. Start the round with 2 chains, 1 DC into the first stitch at the base of the chain, and continue adding 1 DC in each stitch all the way around. To connect the round, insert your hook into the first DC of the round, and slip-stitch with your new color. (see section below on adding a new color)
For Patterns with Multiples Plus 1:
On your last round with no increases, add a DC Decrease in the last 2 stitches of the round. This will decrease the number of stitches in the round by 1, leaving you with an odd number for that plus 1 stitch.
To add a DC Decrease:
In the last 2 stitches of the round, you will be connecting 2 DCs together into 1.
Start your DC and work the stitch until you have 2 loops left on your hook (pull through 1 loop, pull through 2 loops, stop).
Yarn over, start your next DC in the next stitch and work the stitch until you have 3 loops left on your hook (pull through 1 loop, pull through 2 loops, stop). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Adding a New Color
To start the next round with a new color, join the last round from the back.
Pull up a wide loop and remove your hook. Insert your hook from the back under both loops of the first stitch in the round after the chain. It's a lot easier to get your hook in from the back, so let's turn it around so we're looking it from the inside.
Insert your hook and place the loop around the hook. Pull the yarn to tighten it around the hook. Slip stitch. Turn the circle around so you're looking at the front again.
Cast on with your next color and slip stitch. Pull the yarn from the previous color to tighten. Be sure the loop is between the hook and the knot.
Chain 1. Your first stitch to begin round 2 will be directly below your hook. This round is all SC stitches in the top back loops to the end. Crochet over the tail.
At the end of round 2, join and switch colors just as we did for round 1: Pull up a loop, insert your hook under both loops of the first stitch from the back, tighten the loop on the hook, and slip stitch. Slip stitch with your new color, tighten both strands and chain 1.
Now we're ready to begin round 3. For this round we will begin following our mosaic crochet chart. Your first stitch will be directly below your hook, or 1 row below in the same color.
Thanks for reading and happy crocheting!
Visit my shop page for more mosaic crochet patterns
